Since I came to Japan first time in 2009 I have visited hundreds of hot springs. I tried to keep track of the exact number, but eventually I lost count. Among them, there are a few that I keep returning to again and again, physically and in my memories.

ZAO ONSEN

An old hot spring town deep in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture (map). There is a popular ski resort there as well, but it never gets too crowded because of its relatively remote location. The water is highly acidic and has a rich sulphur smell which covers the town like a blanket.

The water and steam are everywhere in Zao. The weather tends to get cloudy and in the winter it snows heavily. Bright green stream of onsen run through the town giving it a truly unique view.

HAKONE

Hakone is one of the most popular hot spring towns in Japan and so probably in the world (map). At first, I was a bit snobbish about it and thought it was too overcrowded. After spending some time living near it in Odawara, I discovered how much this place can give if you just look more carefully.

The Hakone region is actually one giant volcano that collapsed not such a long time ago. Because of its geological properties, it is one of the places where you get to experience onsenpunk most directly. The rain water here becomes a hot spring just after a few years. I will write much more about Hakone separately, it is almost my home and I love it.

HIRAYU ONSEN

The most recent addition to my favorite places in Japan is Hirayu onsen in Gifu-Takayama region (map). That region on the border of Nagano and Takayama prefectures is blessed with some of the most unbelievable and amazing hot springs like Shirahone. Hirayu is just one of them that I happen to love most for its variety of different waters and a character of the town.

The true heart of the town is the large public onsen facility Hirayu-no Mori with many outside baths. The views of the surrounding mountains are breathtaking and so is the dark water filled with mineral residue. As my wife put it, when I die I want to become of the baths in this onsen.